Danger! Danger! Human-directed aggression in dogs (Proceedings)

Aggression comprises ~70% of canine cases presented to behavior clinics. But more importantly to general practitioners is that 16% of dogs have bitten their owner (Guy, et al, AABS, 2001)

While any dog can be aggressive, and is part of the normal species behavioral repertoire, there are important breed differences in the tendency for dogs to be aggressive. Terrier breeds and the classical guard or protection dogs rank high on all types of aggression, as do those most closely related to the wolf (Akitas, Huskies). Treatment of problem aggression should take breed into account, mostly related to size and potential for injury.  Prognosis is based on size, overall temperament, drive, and ability of owners to take r\isk. Often the temperament of the owner is mismatched with the breed-typical behavior, and not just related to aggression.

Diagnosis

We look at our diagnoses based on the dog's behavior and its motivation.

Offensive or defensive nature is based on body language at the time of presentation in response to a trigger. This can be different for different triggers.  The motivations of a defensive threat are generally based on fear and/or anxiety. The motivations of an offensive threat are sometimes not as clear. A dog demonstrating an offensive threat may indeed be confident in the given situation, but it may be fearful, having learned that an offensive threat is more effective to chase the person or other dog away than demonstrating a fearful body posture, behavioral signs in this context may also be ambivalent. The underlying motivation or cause may not be known.  Often is a combination of multiple causes.

When working with an owner, you should triage to determine which of the different problems it is most important to address first. If a dog is diagnosed with aggression of equal intensity and severity toward household members and toward unfamiliar people, the aggression toward household members should generally be addressed first. Even when the owner is unable to fully work on multiple problems concurrently, a recommendation of avoidance is almost always recommended in the interim, until the problem can be fully addressed.

Risks inherent in owning a dog with a history of aggressive behavior

Risk to people and other animals are (obviously!) inherent.  Such risks include:

• Physical injury – redirected aggression, to family members if not recognized, by being physically pulled down, when attempting to stop a dog fight

• Emotional injury – stress in avoiding situations, or constantly worrying about it; conflict between family members

• Potential liability

• Separately, a risk to problem dog can occur. While not as obvious as human risk, the risks to the dog include:

• Physical injury – from other dog or person, or from owner trying to stop the behavior

• Emotional injury – stress in encountering the stimuli; stress in anticipating the owner's reaction

• Relinquishment

History and causes

The dog can have multiple triggers and motivations, and most of the time the dog is fearful. It can be directed toward familiar and/or unfamiliar people, and could be worse (or better!) on its territory. In rare cases it could be, at least in part, be attributed to the dog being very confident. It is often due to owner/dog mismatch and/or miscommunication between owner and dog, but could also be a function of the owner's inability to control the dog, or the dog's unwillingness to accept the owner's leadership in certain situations.

Aggression is often preceded by physical or verbal punishment, disturbing dogs while resting, petting the dog, reaching for the dog, grooming it, getting the dog off the bed or furniture, taking away objects the dog has picked up, taking food away, putting the dog outdoors, approaching them, coming on their territory, reprimanding them, or anything else that can cause fear in a dog.

The very rare dog with a TRULY confident personality will also show body postures suggestive of confidence (ears directed forward, elevated tail, staring, mounting, trying to stand over family members).  Those with a motivation of fear usually show signs of fear, submission, or that of mixed motivation, especially if has learned that a “get you before you get me.”  Make sure you get what the dog's body language was originally when first started…usually fear/stress/anxiety.

Prevention

With proper pet selection, early education, puppy socialization classes, and consistency, the problem is often avoided.

Owners should be asked to ask the dog to work for things that it wants in life from early on, using humane and non-threatening techniques. This helps develop leadership of the owner and gives the dog a consistent manner in which to interact with people. See NILIF later.

Treatment

Avoid the situations that have previously provoked the aggression until the owner can safely work on the situations. This is a safety recommendation, as well as a recommendation so that the dog does not continually get put into that situation and learn inappropriate behaviors.

Hormonal treatment

Castration of males can reduce aggression some of the time. Probability of about 30% of reducing the aggression by at least 50%.

One report suggests that young female dogs that are already aggressive toward owners may be predisposed to problem aggression as an adult if spayed before one year of age. Another study showed that spayed female dogs had a higher level of territorial aggression vs. intact females.

Affection control (NILIF – Nothing in Life is Free)

Object is to point out to the dog, in a non-confrontational manner, that its life is now predictable and safe, thus, decreasing any stress or anxiety so that the other behavior modification is more easily implemented.  The dog has to obey a command (sit, down, etc.) in order to get what it wants  Affection, attention, and food are briefly given to the dog when it obeys, then the owners “turn off” and ignore the dog again.  This continues periodically throughout the next two weeks, at whatever interval the owner decides upon (every few minute is fine), during the times the owner would normally be interacting with the dog.  If the dog fails to respond to a command, it is not rewarded (nor is it scolded or punished). 

Desensitization and counterconditioning

Once the owners feel more comfortable and confident in working with the dog, they can began work on those “trigger” situations which evoke aggression.  The techniques used here are the same ones used to get an animal (or a human) used to a fear-producing stimulus.  Important points include: 1) setting up a “gradient” moving towards situations involving increasing risk for aggressive behavior; 2) using obedience-trained behavior (sits, downs) as the target behavior to reinforce and reward; 3) avoiding eliciting the aggressive behavior; 4) rewarding only calm, relaxed behavior on the part of the dog. Goal is to decrease dog's reaction to “trigger” situations to the point where the owners can keep the dog.

Avoid direct confrontational methods, and use non-confrontational leadership exercises. Confrontational exercises can be dangerous and instill even more fear.

This is where owners confront and “subdue” or “dominate”/etc. the dog by using physical force or restraint as necessary.  Many owners have already tried “meeting force with force.” Commonly suggested techniques include “Alpha Roll” or “scruff shake”.  In most cases it is either ineffective, or outright dangerous, and will increase fear.

Tools

Head collar

Use a head halter so that the owner can be more in control of the dog. If necessary for the dog to be outside (i.e. in the city) and it is dangerous, the owners should also consider the use of a muzzle. If it can be safely done, the dog can have a ‘drag line' attached to the head collar.

Muzzle

Muzzles should not be used to be able to force the dog into situations in which it has shown aggression or acts uncomfortable. Head halters and muzzles can give the owner a sense of confidence that they can go through with the program, and they are more comfortable that they have control over the dog and don't feel anxious. This confidence can be transferred to the dog in a positive manner.

Anxiety wrap/thundershirt

For dogs that are overaroused or anxious these could be tools to help decrease these emotions so that behavior modification can be more effective.

Medications/alternatives

Overview

The underlying question has to be “why” are you using medications?  Is the dog abnormal? What is the underlying reason for the aggression…fear? impulsivity?  There are no medications, nor will there ever be, licensed to treat aggression in dogs, or people for that matter. The owner's perception of the problem often clouds the diagnosis and perceived need for medications.

Before prescribing a medication to an aggressive animal you must: have a diagnosis; make sure the owner is following appropriate safety measures; and certify the owner works on an appropriate behavior modification program for the aggression.

“Traditional”

SSRI's and TCA's are usually the first choice of medications to help facilitate treatment.

“Alternative”

Dog Appeasing Pheromone/Adaptil is an option to help decrease arousal. There is some benefit for some dogs.