Originated on the Iberian Peninsula [Spain and Portugal]
Keeping rabbits in cages began at least 2000 years ago, when Roman farmers kept them for meat. De Re Rustica Varro, 36 B.C.
Industrial revolution
People in cities had little room for "livestock" other than pigeons and rabbits. First "rabbit fancy" clubs developed in this environment.
Rabbits are not hares
Rabbits
born hairless and eyes closed, highly social, live underground except to feed, domesticated
Hares
born with fur and eyes open, solitary, live mainly above ground, no species domesticated
Social organization of wild rabbits
Live in groups-Multiple individuals watching for predators
The more rabbits are out, the less time any one individual spends "scanning", spotting and studying the landscape
Farther away from burrow or closer to potential hiding place of predator--> spots and studies more
When a pet rabbit is in an outside run, provide enclosed area can shelter in. Otherwise spends substantial time alert, and cannot relax.
Within a colony are several small, distinct social groups of 2-8 individuals. Females in the group usually closely related. Rigid dominance hierarchies among males maintained mainly by ritualized signaling rather than fighting
Ideally, keep pet rabbits in small groups
When young males mature enough to challenge senior buck are driven from the group and disperse to join new groups or leave warren to attempt to join another colony. Outside of breeding season, new bucks likely to be accepted into a colony
Digging of warrens
Scrabble with front paws
Kick soil away with hind limbs
Most tunnels narrow, about 15 cm. Only one rabbit can pass
Are widened sections about 40 cm, where rabbits can pass each other
Rabbits are diggers!
A large warren may have 50 exits
Normal entrance with gentle slope. Mound of earth nearby as is dug from outside.
Bolt hole: No mound of earth as is dug from within, Vertical tunnel, Often exits at a bush
Rabbits can drop down or leap up vertical tunnel, but difficult for many of their predators
Some tunnels end in a side gallery, which is a room where the rabbits rest, groom and ingesting fecal pellets Pet rabbits tend to have preferred areas for these activities as well. Make sure a pet house rabbit has access to a suitable area.
Scrapes
Shallow depressions, Roll in, Deposit feces in
Again, rabbits are diggers!
Sensory abilities
Olfactory: Spend much of life in lightless burrows, Excellent sense of smell
Auditory [Those big ears have a purpose]: Excellent hearing, Can hear very low volume sound,
Can manoeuvre ears independently of each other
Visual: Eyes are prominent on sides of head, Wide field of vision, almost 360 degrees
Communication: Auditory
Purr, Click, quiet tooth grinding: Contentment
Loud tooth grinding, grunt, growl: Threat
Loud tooth grinding: Pain
Thump: Alarm call
Scream: Extreme fright
Communication: Olfactory
Scent-marking
Fecal-Latrines
Anal glands
Chin glands->Chin rubbing
Urine spraying
Males spray toward subordinate males and, during courtship, toward an estrous female being courted
Spraying occurs by running past the individual being sprayed, lifting the hindquarters and twisting them to direct a quick spray of urine toward the individual being sprayed. Intact males kept as pets may spray people.
Communication: Visual
Relaxed: Lies on side or abdomen with hind limbs stretched out or squat with legs tucked beneath and ears laid back
Submission and fear: Crouch, avoid eye contact, ears laid back tightly
Alert: Ears up and mobile. May stand on hind limbs
Coprophagy
Digestive system designed for high fiber diet
Soft droppings, generated in the cecum and covered in mucus are produced and eaten when are below ground.
Other feces
Small, firm pellets
Scrapes around periphery of warren, marking territorial boundaries
Latrines
Communal toilets used by all members of the colony
Often on slight rise in terrain
Medicine and behavior
As with all species, illness and injury can result in behavior changes
However, as a prey animal, they have been strongly selected for hiding of illness or injury as well.
Basic care
Space to run
Traditional rabbit keeping derives from housing of rabbits kept for meat
Small cages available at pet store are inadequate for an adult rabbit, except as a sleeping area.
Lots of high fiber, low calorie food, i.e. hay [timothy, grass]
In the wild, spends about 12 hours/day eating
Water: Bowl or Water bottle
Litterbox
Rabbits select specific areas to eliminate
Note site rabbit has chosen and place box there
Initially limit, then gradually increase, the area the rabbit has access to.
If eventually has access to a large area, provide multiple litterboxes
Occasional fecal "accidents" will be firm pellets that are easy to pick up with a tissue.
If rabbit eliminates over the side of the box, get a box with higher sides
Routine and freedom from stress is important.
Disrupted schedules, addition of a new rabbit, etc. can lead to incidents of eliminating outside the box.
If tosses around, clamp in place
Rabbits are not cats with long ears!
They often spend a lot of time in their litterbox.
They do not "bury".
They may eat the litter.
Learning
Rough handling will produce a rabbit that is afraid of people and avoids them. As with dogs, the smaller breeds are probably more at risk than are the larger, bigger boned breeds. Appropriate handling, petting, and treats will produce a rabbit that approaches and solicits petting.
Aggression
Forelimbs: Clawing
Teeth: Biting
Hindlimbs: Kicking
Desensitization
The animal is exposed to a stimulus that elicits a given response, but at such a low level that the response is not elicited. Over time and successive repetitions, then intensity of the stimulus is gradually increased, ideally without eliciting the response.
Counter-conditioning
A response is elicited which is behaviorally and physiologically incompatible with another response.
Possessive aggression
DS & CC
May need to gently restrain
Fear aggression
When frightened, a rabbit may freeze, run away or attack
Inadequate socialization when young
Desensitization
Treats
Gloves if serious biter and rushes
Multiple rabbits
Social animals
Best to raise together from 6 to 12 weeks of age on
If introduce abruptly as older animals, fighting is likely, and can be fatal
Introducing unfamiliar rabbits
Expose to each other in side by side cage
Continue exposure in neutral area with adequate restraint and/or poor footing such that fights are difficult.
Harness with leash, Bathtub, Moving vehicle
Smaller cage inside larger cage
Fighting and minor injury still possible
Chewing
Natural Behavior
Rabbit-proof areas that rabbits will be free in, especially cords
Provide rabbits with plenty of items that it is acceptable for them to chew and that are suitable chewing items, e.g. willowBlocks or sticks of non-toxic wood
Chewable willow basket provides nesting area that is chewable and diggable
"Playhouses" should be built of nontoxic cardboard or wood.
If rabbit chews a lot, will have to be replaced regularly
Playhouses
Non-toxic cardboard, Can dig and chew, Replace periodically
If a rabbit is persistent in chewing an unacceptable item, e.g. a furniture leg, use positive or negative punishment every time it does so.